Après dîner

December 6th, 2023

Twice in the last week I’ve been queried about what would be good to have as an after dinner drink, and of course it occurred to me that this is the season for gathering around the dinner table, or having a snuggly nightcap by the fire. Unless you’re one of our readers from Florida, in which case I suppose it would be a snuggly nightcap by the screened in pool. Watch out for those gators.

There are a few ways to approach this question, because there is a right answer depending who you ask. It just isn’t always the same answer. To start with, is this a beverage served after a meal at the table with guests, or if it is a tipple partaken of apart from the dining room. Some find that coffee is what they need after a meal, others find a pour of whiskey or port is what does them right. Regular coffee has caffeine, a stimulant, while alcohol is a depressant. Already we have contradictory opinions… unless it’s an Irish coffee, then I suppose it’s the best of both worlds.

Some prefer savory to sweet after the meal. My darling wife has been known to follow a dinner at a Japanese restaurant with slices of sashimi for dessert, but a more common route in this part of the world is the cheese board. Said board of cheeses lends itself well to dry reds and port if they’re harder aged cheeses, while for fattier cheeses I prefer high acid white or bubbly. And while we’re on the subject, I will say that I don’t often reach for Moscato d’Asti, but higher quality ones like G.D. Vajra’s are low alcohol, fizzy, and refreshing with the right amount of sweetness to match fruit based desserts or blue cheeses.

As for chocolate, or chocolate adjacent desserts, I must say that the sleeper hit for me isn’t port, but Barolo Chinato. Barolo Chinato is a cousin to Vermouth and Italian Amaro, except while those are often made from a base of less expensive wine blends or neutral spirits, Chinato is made from proper D.O.C.G. Barolo that is fortified, sweetened, and aromatized – often with cinchona, wormwood, or gentian. Every family’s recipe will be a little bit different. The stuff is not inexpensive, since it’s base material is Barolo, but it sure is darn good.

If we’ve moved away from the dinner table, I like a beverage that has narrative gravitas. In a perfect world it would be a snifter of brandy that I could hurl into a roaring fire when I’m delivered displeasing news. However, if you would prefer not to litter your home with broken glass and singed fabrics, neat pours of spirits or sturdy cocktails occupy this space nicely.

Richer, creamier cocktails fit well here. A White Russian could supplant the need for a proper dessert, but championing this cocktail could be problematic due to its name in the current climate. Better play it safe with a Brandy Alexander. Those who tolerate anise would be well served with the historical Sol y Sombra, equal parts (ideally Spanish) anisette and brandy; it warms the body and makes you feel like a Hemmingway stereotype.

The question of sweet or savory after dinner is left entirely to the whims of the drinker, and I believe that there are few wrong answers here. Whether you’d rather have more sashimi for dessert, a sweet pecan pie, or you’d prefer to drink your calories there are plentiful options for after dinner beverages.

-Joe Buchter, Import Wine Buyer

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